December 24, 2006

December 20, 2006

Mount Nebo, Jordan

Looking toward the Plain of Moab and Jericho
Steve at the Tomb of Moses
Dead Sea 20km thataway

If it's Wednesday it must be Amman

It seems I have no photos from Cairo. We didn't really do any sightseeing but I wish I had some of Anna and Shoukry, at least.

Now we're in Amman, which was a quick Egypt Air flight on Monday. Amman seems a bit...sleepy, to be kind. It's dusty, all the buildings are bone-colored, and the nightlife seems to revolve around the bars in the American hotels. 3 American hotels were bombed in November of 2005.

Yesterday Jihan, the Jordan rep, took us to Mount Nebo, nearby. It is where Moses is buried! Who knew? You can stand at the tomb of Moses and look out across the Plain of Moab to see the Dead Sea and Israel. She pointed out the town of Jericho and the Israeli border. Then we stopped for lunch at a wonderful little restaurant in Faysaliyah.

Hector has a presentation this evening, then tomorrow we get up early for our private tour of Petra, 3 hours away. Jihan arranged for us to have the driver used by the Minister of Tourism. Is this a good thing? We'll see.

December 17, 2006

The Cairo Eye Doctor

Hector accidentally tore his last contact lens so we went off last night (8pm) in search of an optometrist recommended by the hotel concierge. All we had was a business card totally in Arabic and some vague directions that it was "near for walking". After taking twenty minutes to cross the street outside the hotel, we were then plunged into a completely non-tourist area. We stopped 5 times to ask directions and after a lot of pointing that way, we were standing in front of an old apartment building. Hanging from a 5th floor balcony was a dirty banner with a lot of Arabic writing and a picture of an eyeball. That had to be it.

Up four flights I knocked on a blank door that was thrown open by a woman who looked at us, screamed and slammed the door in our faces. After a few seconds of more screaming behind the door she opened it a crack and I stuck the business card inside. (scream, scream) "upstairs!"

On the next floor we found the Dr's receptionist and Hector managed to explain who he was. We sat a few minutes in the crowded waiting room, like a pair of fucking Martians, and then we got ushered into the Dr's office. It turns out that he was educated in Spain so he and Hector, of course, were immediate best friends. After an exam and a lot of jokes about the silliness of U.S. medical care, Hector got his box of contact lenses. Total cost for the evening: $19.22

December 16, 2006

Cairo

I was so excited that I was flying Emirates Air out of Dubai to Cairo, first class no less, while Joan and Hector were in business. But our plane was an old bucket and it was no better than some crappy American airline. What a disappointment. I had always heard it was ultra-elegant.

But we're here now. Good old Cairo. Good old filthy, stinking, chaotic Cairo. This is our 3rd time here. Our hotel is the Intercontinental Citystars, attached to the fancy schmancy Citystars mall and in the area, Heliopolis. We have the same sweet, funny driver as last time, Shoukry. He's a hunky former U.N. soldier and I'm certain he carries a gun in the car somewhere, in addition to the 3-foot long club he already showed us. He sees himself as a bodyguard as well as a driver and keeps an eye out for all the Harcourt people here.

We met up with Freddy, our Egyptian friend, last night for dinner. We went to the Four Seasons Hotel for their Lebanese buffet, which was delicious. But the hotel is incredible. It sits right on the Nile and is absolutely gorgeous, by far the nicest in town. As we were walking out of our hotel, trying to negotiate through the heavy traffic, a car ran over my fucking foot! Luckily for me it was a small car and they must have needed air in their tires because it didn't really hurt at all. Mostly my pride.

Today Hector is presenting at the American University of Cairo. I joined them all this morning for the opening but they said I could take Shoukry and get out of there so I did. Outside it's cold and dusty, a rotten combination, so I imagine I'll be staying in the hotel or the Citystars Mall all day.

December 14, 2006

The Burj Al Arab Hotel, Dubai

Looking up inside the atrium
In the Lobby
In the bar, 27th floor

December 12, 2006

Dubai

Burj Al Arab Hotel


Indoor ski slope at Mall of the Emirates

Dubai

We're here at last. After three long flights, we made it to the hotel at 3 am Monday after leaving SD at 1030 am Saturday. Our hotel, the Montgomerie, is just great. It's a brand new boutique property located on the grounds of a private country club.

Dubai is one big construction site. It's as if Sheikh Mohammed woke up one day said "let's build a city today" and they started on the whole thing at once. My cousin, Babs, said it used to be a charming little sleepy place when they first came here in the 1970's. Her husband, Crawford, works for one of the big construction firms.
Best of all, the schedule is easy and I've had 2 days now to play on my own. Yesterday I met Babs and her friend for lunch and we took an abra ride up the Dubai Creek. Today I went to the incredible Mall of the Emirates, which has the only indoor ski slope in the Mideast. Shopped at Harvey Nichols.

Hector has had afternoon presentations in Abu Dhabi and Al-Ain. Tomorrow night we're going to a barbeque at a local's home and then Thursday we leave for Cairo. I'm still fighting jet lag. It's only 4 pm and I'm eyeing that luxurious bed... maybe just a little nap...






December 05, 2006







Last night my old friend from 2nd grade, Chris, called to let me know that he was in a Tulsa hospital after nearly dying from a ruptured appendix. Apparently they kept telling him he had an ulcer and sending him home until finally someone did the right diagnosis. Further proof that a hospital is the last place you want to be if you're sick.


Then this morning I was talking to my old friend, Diane, and she was on her way to the clinic with a bunch of suspicious symptoms like nausea and lightheadedness but no fever. She was scared. At our age it could be anything.


Plus, my old friend, Kent, needs to have a hip replacement! He's younger than me, for God's sake (but only by a couple of years). We were with him in Palm Springs over the weekend and he was limping around like Grandpa from The Real McCoys. By Sunday I had developed a sympathy limp.


Today, however, I'm feeling by far the healthiest of my contemporaries.

December 03, 2006

Fun-filled weekend in Palm Springs


Just returned from a whirlwind weekend in good old Palm Springs. Our friend, Rob Lang the photographer, was having a gallery reception there this weekend and invited us over. So Bob and Kent flew in from Santa Fe, we collected them here in San Diego, then all drove over together Friday evening. H and I stayed at the antiseptic Courtyard by Marriott (have to build up those points), they all stayed at the Mirasol, a charming gay guest house that was built in the 1940's by Howard Hughes, though not as a gay guest house, of course.

Rob's reception was fun, even though it was competing with the annual Christmas Parade outside, which was mostly a parade of city utility trucks decorated with Xmas lights. But we met lots of new folks- some from LA, some from PS, discovered some new restaurants, and did some lounging by Howard Hughes' pool. Hector and I are buying two of the pieces from Rob's show.

Back in San Diego now, I have dropped them all at the airport. Hector is going to Seattle for work, K & B returning to Santa Fe, and I am vegetating for the rest of the evening so stop bugging me.

November 29, 2006

Jimmy Carter



Last night I watched Jimmy Carter on 3 different talk shows in the space of about 2 hours. He's selling his new book, Palestine: Peace Not Apartheid. He basically answered the same questions and told the same story on all the shows but I always love hearing him because he's so obviously informed about world events, he is still involved, and I always feel he's telling the truth. Like saying that an honest discussion about Israel/ Palestine is missing in the US, even though it's occuring everywhere else in the world. I was too young to understand his presidency when it was happening, but I think these days that he's one of the few honest voices we have in this country.

November 28, 2006


Last night we put up our new phony Christmas tree. Once I got the thing out of the box I realized it's 9 feet tall and six feet wide! But the good news is that the lights are on it permanently. We simply hung a few ornaments and congratulated ourselves on a job well done. I realize it's a bit early but since we're leaving on Dec 9...

November 23, 2006

Happy Thanksgiving

I can't imagine a more gorgeous Thanksgiving Day. Here in the desert it's about 72 degrees , just a few clouds. From our 3rd floor balcony we fed the ducks old bread this morning and I pitched a few carrots to the families of bunnies frolicking in the marsh grass. The only thing spoiling this serene picture is the loud, cigar-smoking old men on the other balconies.

We loved Bond on Tuesday. Daniel Craig is a more serious Bond than the others and I like the way they've removed a lot of the sillier aspects of the genre. The realism makes it more suspenseful. Last night we saw The Fountain. Very surreal, but really engrossing. Hugh Jackman is great.

I guess we won't be having turkey today but what we will be having is repeated trips to the ATM machine at the nearby Agua Caliente Casino.

November 20, 2006

Thanksgiving in Palm Desert


We are now at our time-share, Marriott's Shadow Ridge, in Palm Desert, a few miles down the road from Palm Springs. It's a beautiful place, very green, sparkling pools, all that. But it's mostly all about playing golf so the place this week is crawling with the whitest bunch of squares you've ever seen. We usually just drift around seeing movies, gambling at the nearby casino and lounging by the pool. Went to see A Good Year yesterday. It's really terrible. Russell Crowe and Ridley Scott should be ashamed of themselves. Today we're seeing Casino Royale. I love Bond. And to continue further in the Hollywood mode, yesterday we saw Carol Channing at Albertsons, looking at fake fireplace logs. So you see that Palm Springs glamour is not dead, even though Frank Sinatra and Bob Hope are.

November 16, 2006

A Draining Day

I took Hector to the Lipo Clinic at 7 this morning and collected him at 12. He was all doped up and damp and oozy and I barely managed to get him up the stairs and into the [guest room] bed. Now it's 5 pm and he quite literally hasn't moved a muscle in hours. Even though I can hear an occasional snore it's a bit like having a dead body in the house.

November 15, 2006

Wednesday November 15

In typical Berrier fashion, my siblings are all drifting away from the "Christmas at Steve and Hector's" idea in favor of ideas of their own. After some initial disappointment, I think it will work out well. Hector and I have decided to extend the December Mideast trip so that we fly from Amman to Rome and spend Christmas there with the Pope. There's a Marriott in Rome, so the hotel is on points... and we would have to fly past Rome anyway to get back home...

November 08, 2006

Wednesday November 8

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November 01, 2006

Antique Silver and Brass Chandelier

US Customs

We had a nice, quiet weekend. On Saturday I cooked a lovely Beouf Bourginon and had Mark & Arturo & Sonia and Steve & Jeff over for dinner. On Sunday we saw Marie Antoinette, a piece of shit, then came home and watched 8 hours of 24 on DVD. Hector is now in Puerto Rico for 10 days so I am expecting a very quiet weekend ahead as well.

On a different note, US Customs finally released our antique chandelier from Morocco and I picked it up today. What a bureaucratic nightmare. Those Customs guys think they are actual policemen and have to act all tough. However, it was worth the wait. See above.

October 24, 2006

More of an idiot than I thought

God I'm fucking exhausted and it's only Tuesday. I haven't really worked in 6 weeks (some would say my whole life) and I remember now that I don't like it. Traffic is hell going up to North County, I'm having to carry heavy shelving upstairs, and I'm not being paid enough. Waa waa. I thought I would be finished today but I have to return tomorrow to complete the job.

I did see a body on the freeway yesterday. There was a crowd standing around a guy that had jumped from the overpass. He was dead, quite dead.

I see that Bush has changed his tune re: the Iraq War. If he thinks that lame story is going to fool anybody he's even more of an idiot than I thought. It's all about votes in November.

October 23, 2006

Monday Monday

It's Monday morning and I'm in a holding pattern re: today's work. My client disappeared over the weekend and I'm waiting waiting... It was a good weekend though. Saturday, we met Orrie at a new Moroccan restaurant called Cous Cous in Hillcrest so we could dish everyone that was on the tour with us. Flirted with the waiter from Marrakech, had some wonderful lamb, beef, veg and couscous. Sunday, Hector and I had breakfast at The Mission, then came home and relaxed.

We did get my air tickets for the Mideast trip in December. I was hoping it would be a bit cheaper than last time but, no, it was not. $8k. It's all those business class upgrades. But I'll be damned if I'm going to fly 16 hours in coach while Hector is languishing in business class. One leg of our journey is on Emirates Air, which I hear is really fa-fa-fa. And another is a BA flight from London to Dubai and word is that's pretty nice as well.

Poor Hector had to fly to Oregon last night. He'll be gone all week, but then he has 4 days off, then to Puerto Rico for 9 days. Then he has a whole month off after his lipo. He'll be slim and rested for Dubai.

October 20, 2006

London, Morocco, San Francisco, New York


Well, goodness! What a month... I loved Morocco. Frankly the trip was so full I don't know where to begin. But we did a lot of walking (it was, after all, a 13-day walking tour), a lot of eating (yummy tagines of lamb & veg or beef & veg), lots of shoppping (bought a huge carpet, antique chandelier, camel saddle bag, clay tagine, yellow pointy shoes) and I can honestly say I've never met a friendlier people than the Moroccans. Really, everyone was warm and welcoming, even in the small villages where they didn't speak anything but Berber. Everyone was curious and sweet. And those adorable Berber boys! (see Mohamed above)

I also had a wonderful time in London. It was low key. We had a good visit with my cousin Babs before she left for Dubai, saw Billy Elliott and I really enjoyed it. Had dinner with friends we met in Ecuador and just strolled about a lot. We stayed at the Grosvenor House on Park Lane and it is our official hotel now. It's old and funky but really elegant and directly across the street from Hyde Park.

Back home for one day then we left for San Francisco. Gorgeous weather, discovered a couple new restaurants, and of course a nice hike in Muir Woods. I got a haircut. Then on to New York. We stayed at the Marriott on Times Square and although the hotel is nice and remodeled I hate Times Square, it's such a crowded freak show. Also discovered a new Thai restaurant, visited the Natural History Museum (wow!) and happened to be walking on the East Side, past the building that got hit by an airplane, right after it happened. So we joined the thousands of gawkers in the street, chatted with everyone, then made our way back to our freak show. I didn't make it to Las Vegas, which was next on the itinerary, because of flight delays in Chicago. So we spent the night in Chicago, then I just came on home. Thank God. I was exhausted. I have no idea what time zone my brain is in but I'm still going to bed at 8pm and getting up at 4am.

So I'm home for a while, until December when I'm joining Hector on a biz trip to Dubai, Cairo, Amman.

Morocco





September 17, 2006

We're Off!

It's 2 nights in London, where we'll see Billy Elliott, then to Fes for 13 days walking in Morocco, then back to London 2 more days- dinner with John and Karen, a charming couple we met travelling in Peru and Ecuador. Back home for a quick turnaround, then off for 2 days San Francisco, 2 days New York, 2 days Las Vegas. Photos to follow!

September 12, 2006



Brother Lucien, Groom Ron, Bride Sandi, Me, Brother Keith

September 03, 2006

Sandi's Wedding

I've just returned from a whirlwind weekend in Dallas for my sister Sandi's wedding. We flew in Friday evening after many delays due, first, to poor airplane maintenance, and second, bad weather. I left the hotel once the entire weekend. We stayed at the beautiful Adolphus downtown, where the wedding was held and it was fun to see everyone- all the sibs, and the nieces and nephews and such. We all had our significant others with us so we were all pretty mellow.

Sandi's wedding was very nice and simple (fitting for a middle-aged second marriage, rather like Charles and Camilla) but I find it so exhausting to have to get all dressed up and remain presentable for more than a couple of hours. Especially after a cocktail or two. I was the DJ for the ceremony, which entailed switching among 3 songs Sandi had chosen for the various entrances and exits. The Wedding Song went on for so long that the maids of honor were throwing me filthy looks.

After the wedding and the dinner, a small group of us took over the jazz lounge and I polished off a bottle of red wine alone so today I'm rather weary. It's wonderful to be back home now, I'm going to scour the kitchen for dinner then go to bed. Ta ta.

August 29, 2006

Mission Accomplished!



Bally Arakis in Black Calf

Size 10D

$395

August 28, 2006

Las Vegas





We drove over yesterday, Sunday. Five and a half hours. It's always easier heading here than heading home. No Mark and Arturo this time, it's mainly a work trip for Hector. And we're staying at the Paris, not our beloved Bellagio. After checking in, we wandered around a bit, and played at a few casinos after we arrived. And, surprisingly, I won a total of $800 at 4 different machines at 3 casinos. I was hot. And now early this morning, to confirm my fears that my lucky streak was temporary, I just lost about $100 in less than an hour. Oh well. I'm now heading over to Kenneth Cole at Caesars Palace to buy a new pair of dress shoes before I squander the rest of my winnings.

August 25, 2006

TGIF

This has been a busy, physical week with work. Lots of hauling heavy bookcases up to the 2nd floor at Jim's and schlepping all my tools everywhere. So I'm looking forward to our upcoming 3 nights at Paris Las Vegas. I'm even looking forward to the 5 hour drive over on Sunday. It's a work trip for Hector so while he's doing his song and dance I'll be at the gym, the pool, the spa or the slot machines!

August 23, 2006

Suspicious activity

This morning at 130 am I awoke to the sound of car doors out front. I looked out the window and saw a police cruiser driving away. My immediate thought was, "are they here for me?", an instinctive reaction that I haven't shed since my pot-head days in college in the 1970's. But now, returning home, I see my neighbor's car is being towed, or more acurately: repossessed. So it's odd that a cop would be snooping around his car at 130 am but as they say...rather him than me.

August 22, 2006



My brother Lucien, me, my cousin, my brother Keith, Crawford

The Wright Family:
Mom is upper left, Uncle Harold is bottom second front left





My new cousin, Barbra, and her husband, Crawford

Just squeaked past a birthday over the weekend. A very low-key one, compared to the over-the-top celebration of last year. But we had dinner with Jorge & Elsa at Park House Eatery on Thursday, then dinner with Mark & Arturo at Pacifica Del Mar on Friday. By Sunday I was ready for cheese and fruit in front of the DVR. Hector bought me a beautiful jacket and trousers to wear to my sister's wedding in 2 weeks.

We just returned from a family reunion in Waxahachie. The Wright Reunion (Mom's side of the family) is held every 3rd Sunday in August at the Optimist Youth Center. I haven't attended in 35 years but the place hasn't changed one bit. We all went so we could meet our newly found cousin, Barbra, from the UK. It's the big news in our family: My long-dead Uncle Harold served in York, UK during WWII and apparently did a bit of fraternizing with a local married girl, whose own husband was serving in Europe. Anyway, Uncle Harold eventually returned to Texas and never told a soul what happened. 60 years later, Barbra decided to search for her birth parents, which led her ultimately to my cousin in Waxahachie Texas. And although her birth mother rejected her attempts at contact, we all welcomed her and actually smothered her to death with attention. She and her husband are really fun. She got to meet tons of cousins and saw hundreds of old family photos.

Hector is working in Costa Rica this week, I'm catching up with clients, then we are driving to Vegas on Sunday. It's a work trip for Hector, a pleasure trip for me.

August 07, 2006

Monday

I took Hector to the airport at 5 am today then had a pit stop at Starbucks on the way home. It was so nice on Adams Avenue that I sat out front for a bit to enjoy the sunrise. Now home, I need to prepare for the electricians who are coming soon to install the new lighting. Ceiling is scraped, house is clean, a long to-do list awaits me this week.

August 02, 2006

Back home now. The remainder of the trip was wonderful. After 2 nights at Monte Sagrado (and wishing there was a 3rd) we drove back to Santa Fe and re-checked in at Inn at the Loretto. Suddenly the city was overflowing with tourists and we discovered that the annual Spanish Market was scheduled for that weekend. We caught a bit of it before leaving on Saturday and there was some impressive folk art but everything cost $3000. I suppose they price things for the rich New Yorkers who jet in just for this show. Needless to say we left empty handed. Even the children's art section was overpriced. I'm so sure I'm going to pay $85 for a 10-year-old's painting of the baby Jesus.

Today, Wednesday, we have the ceiling scraper crew in to remove all the "popcorn" (acoustic texture) from the ceiling. They are making an unbelievable mess and we're not allowed upstairs for any reason. Floating down the stairs is a lot of dust, a few curious trickles of water, and the occasional whiff of pot, so at least they are finding satisfaction in their work.

July 27, 2006

New Mexico for 4 days

We're in Taos. We arrived in Santa Fe on Tuesday afternoon and checked into the Inn at the Loretto. Beautiful lobby and pool but the rooms are a bit faded and the bath amenities smell like bubble gum. We met Kent, Bob and Rob Lang at Senor Lucky's for dinner, then we joined the boys across the street at a big party being held to celebrate some community Awards Ceremony, which had just let out. Everyone was there, the mayor and all the local celebrities. In fact it seemed like the whole town was there, I don't know who was actually working and who was a guest. Left there, home to bed.

Wednesday after breakfast at Pasqual's we drove up here and checked into our beloved Monte Sagrado spa. It's the first time we've been here this time of year and everything is so lush and green. Last night there was a very dramatic thunderstorm and around 830 Hector and I were stunned by a nuclear flash of light, an incredibly loud crack and for a few seconds the air was sizzling and our hair was standing up. Lightning had struck a huge cottonwood tree right out back in the Sacred Circle. It split a seam 35 feet long from the ground up and threw scraps of kindling 50 yards away. I just spoke to another guest who was outside when it happened and it threw him to the ground and broke his camera. So we got our money's worth this trip.

Hector is currently being massaged and facialed. I'm getting a massage from Alex at 3.

July 20, 2006

Hot as Hell! Although I really shouldn't complain since I see that Dallas is having 104 today and London is having record heat as well. My paltry 82 degrees, 71% humidity seems negligible.

Electricians are here destroying the house this week. We're having new much-needed lighting installed in every room and they are carving long furrows in the ceiling to run their wires. A fine toxic powder of plaster is covering everything. One of them is cute but I caught him listening to Christian music yesterday.

I'm so disgusted with Israel, almost as disgusted as I am with Bush, inc. Innocent Lebanese are being pounded into the dirt and these fucking war-mongers won't even issue an official call for a cease-fire.

On a lighter note, I was thrilled with the footage of Bush at the G8 summit, chewing with mouth open, making the usual hillbilly remarks, looking like the bumpkin he is.

May 13, 2006

LIMA

Saturday May 13, I believe

After flying all the way to Miami to catch a red-eye to Lima, we are finally here. We were collected at the Lima airport at 430 a.m. by a chatty A&K rep (Julio) who handed us our portfolios and itineraries and plane tickets for upcoming flights, then got us checked into the beautiful Miraflores Park Hotel. Then off he scampered into the night.

Hector and I slept a few hours and now I can't remember a word Julio told us. I do remember our driver being stopped twice by the police, with Julio giggling and saying they were just trying to shake us down because we were in a nice car. He told them we were from the US and they made themselves scarce. Hmm. I didn't know that had any pull, I would have suspected the opposite. And now I have a vague recollection that we are on our own until 2pm Sunday. We strolled about this afternoon, I just finished a great massage with Antonio and Hector's having his now. I suspect we'll do room service dinner.

The hotel is right on the Pacific but the fog is so bad that we can barely see 100 yards. Apparently this is more common than not here. Our room is very nice, they call it a suite but that's a stretch. It just has as much furniture as a suite, but it's all in one room. The bathroom is spectacular, however- an important component. So we'll see a bit of the old downtown tomorrow, then we depart for Cusco early on Tuesday.

May 09, 2006

A NEW LEAF

I have a brand new laptop and brand new wifi in the house so I'm all set to restart this tired old travel blog, even though it seems I've driven away everyone who ever came near it.

So in a nutshell, there was Puerto Rico at Christmas, a fabulous 2 weeks in the Mideast in March, then a lovely Big Sur road trip over Easter, followed by a quick trip to Dallas to pay last respects to Dad, and on the heels of that- a nice little 5 day jaunt in Chicago where the weather was not icy and bitter but a balmy, welcoming 70 degrees. And Friday we depart for the long awaited Abercrombie & Kent trip to Machu Picchu and the Galapagos Islands!

Get ready, put your reading glasses on!

March 28, 2006

Cairo, Kuwait, Doha, Beirut


Beirut Cafe




Byblos, an ancient Phoenician port near Beirut
Posted by Picasa Mosque in Beirut





















Cairo, from our hotel
Welcomed to Kuwait by the Royal Family
Posted by Picasa
Shopping at the Kuwait airport












Flying in to Beirut
Posted by Picasa
at Giza

February 14, 2006

Another successful avoidance of Christmas

So veddy, veddy remiss in my blogging... It's like dieting. If you stop for a moment, you're lost.

So let's see... a lovely trip at Christmas to the Florida Keys and then on to Puerto Rico. We flew into Miami and breezed south out of there without so much as a backward glance. We stayed two nights at the charmless Marriott Key Largo. It was a bit too cool for swimming so we drove along the Keys and enjoyed the views. It's amazing that you're driving along the highway and 5 feet to the right is the Gulf of Mexico and 5 feet to the left is the Atlantic Ocean. This goes on for hours.

On Christmas Eve we drove on down to Key West and checked in to Alexander's, a gay "resort", typical of its genre. This one was co-ed so there was no nude sunbathing; no hot tub hanky-panky, unlike those 24-hour-a-day orgies one "hears about" in Palm Springs' gay resorts.
Key West is really charming but God it's dull. Quaint neighborhoods and popular Duval Street lined with bars and restaurants. Like Bourbon Street, when you walk down it the next morning it smells like vomit and piss. So I'm happy that I experienced Key West but I don't really need to go back. We did have a wonderful meal at Pisces Restaurant. In fact, we had 2 good meals there.

On to San Juan. Stayed at the San Juan Marriott, overlooking the Atlantic. Here it was nice and warm, we walked all over the old section (Old San Juan), had some fabulous Puerto Rican meals and even gambled a bit in the hotel casino. Old San Juan is very picturesque, we didn't even bother to go looking for the more modern downtown area. One day we drove to El Junque, the rainforest. We also drove to the little town where Hector spent his formative years. We found his street but weren't sure about the house so we stopped across the street and asked an old man who was gardening if that was the right address. I'll be damned if he didn't look up and say "are you Jorge Ramirez' son?" So we were hugged and dragged into the house to see the old wife, who spoke some incomprehensible version of Spanish at me the entire time. I spent a lot of time smiling and nodding.
After a few days there we headed toward our final destination, Rincon, a beach community on the western side of the island, pretty much where the Caribbean and Atlantic Oceans meet. We stopped at the breathtaking Arecibo Radio Telescope, which I'd wanted to see since an episode of NOVA a few years ago. Out in the middle of the jungle, in a huge natural depression, is the largest radio telescope in the world and it's just amazing. This is the place that has located many of the new planets and stars found in the last few years and also where NASA looked for communication from outer space as part of the SETI program. We hung around over an hour, just staring at the damn thing until its constant electronic beeping drove us off.

We made it to Rincon around 1pm and checked into the Rincon Beach Hotel, which was an instant disappointment. They first put us in a room with a view of a parking lot and the childrens playground. Then they moved us to a slightly better room facing the opposite direction. If you crossed your eyes and hung over the balcony you could see the ocean. And this room was $350 a night! So we grumbled and made some noises about changing hotels but after a few phone calls we realized that wasn't going to happen, nobody else wanted us at any price. So we walked down to the beach and it was so spectacular we changed our tune a bit. Gorgeous white sand with swaying coconut trees and a gentle slope down to the calm blue Caribbean. Heaven. Not another hotel in sight. So we basically spent the next 2 and a half days down there, reading, sleeping, eating, frolicking in the warm, gentle surf. The hotel food was decent, although the staff was apathetic, but the beach made it all okay. The hotel was occupied by a few European families and many, many Jews from New Jersey. They were fun to talk to, or at least listen to.

On New Years Eve we had a dress-up dinner at the fancy-schmancy Horned Dorset Primavera Hotel. Were back in bed by midnight and got up early on New Years Day to drive back to San Juan to catch our flight back home. All the cranky mommies and daddies with their awful kids were sitting around us the whole way.