Taos Pueblo
April 25, 2005
April 24, 2005
Taos, NM
After a quick breakfast at Tesoro with the boys, Hector and I lit out for Taos. We took the unbelievably gorgeous drive on the High Road, in order to stretch out the anticipation of our stay at El Monte Sagrado. We finally arrived and O My God, it's just fabulous. We checked in and were given a hushed tour of the facilities and then led around the Sacred Circle to our room, titled Geronimo, since it's one of the Native American Suites. Chilled bottle of champagne waiting for us, the fireplace burning, a little gift arrangement of bath accessories. Immediately we decided that 2 nights just wasn't going to cut it. We lolled by the jacuzzi and pool and had a bit of room service with our champagne, and snuggled into our cozy king-sized bed. Nighty-night.
Next morning we had our complimentary breakfast at the restaurant and drove off to our horseback-riding appointment. That was great fun. The stables were run by a young Indian guy, Floyd, and we were joined by Pat, a tourist from New Jersey, so it was the 4 of us on the ride. My horse was named Moon, and she was the largest, so I was terrified at first but after a while she pretended to obey me. I asked Pat if she rode much (hoping she'd be less experienced than me) and she said "oh yes, I ride every chance I get". Not 2 minutes later she asked Floyd which side of the horse she should mount from. Now, excuse me, but if one rides every chance one gets, one knows the answer to that question. So right off I knew I wasn't the least experienced. Sure enough, her horse dragged her through every mesquite bush on the reservation and did whatever the hell it felt like doing... It was very satisfying.
After our ride we drove to a local hangout for lunch, The Pueblo Cafe, then raced back to the hotel so we'd be relaxed in time for our complimentary massages. My masseur was a huge German guy with hands the size of catcher's mitts. I gasped when I saw him. He proceeded to pull and stretch and yank and lift with those ham hands and it was the best massage I've ever had in my life. His name is Alex, ask for him if you go there. Beg for him.
Dinner that night was at the lovely De La Tierra at the resort. For appetizer, I had carpeggio of yak. Paper-thin, paper-taste. Hope it's not the New Thing. And my Angus Steak was a little bit of a letdown too so that was the only bad thing.
Friday I had an incredible Belgian Waffle for breakfast then we drove over to the Taos Pueblo, the remains of the original settlement of the local Indians. It's pretty interesting but it's a big tourist trap and the Indians didn't give a shit if we were there or not. Some are actually still living there at the pueblo so they were going about their business, thank you very much, paleface. We also stopped at the local obligatory Indian Casino, a sad affair with a few dozen slot machines. We lost, as we deserved. Then strolled around the Plaza, which is nowhere near as good as Santa Fe's Plaza and had a mediocre dinner there. The sidewalks were rolled up at 8:30 so we slunk back to our sanctuary.
Saturday morning, another Belgian waffle and we sadly packed our bags to return to Santa Fe. When the valet brought our car around there were two little bags of homemade cookies sitting on the seats. I wept all the way back.
We spent Saturday night in Santa Fe. Sunday, we drove to Albuquerque because I wanted at least to check it out since I'm forever bad-mouthing it so much. Turns out it's not as bad as I've always told people it is, but it's no Santa Fe. We had a good Italian dinner on Nob Hill and stayed at the Marriott. Next morning, caught our planes: Hector to work in Dallas, me to San Diego. Glad to be home.
Next morning we had our complimentary breakfast at the restaurant and drove off to our horseback-riding appointment. That was great fun. The stables were run by a young Indian guy, Floyd, and we were joined by Pat, a tourist from New Jersey, so it was the 4 of us on the ride. My horse was named Moon, and she was the largest, so I was terrified at first but after a while she pretended to obey me. I asked Pat if she rode much (hoping she'd be less experienced than me) and she said "oh yes, I ride every chance I get". Not 2 minutes later she asked Floyd which side of the horse she should mount from. Now, excuse me, but if one rides every chance one gets, one knows the answer to that question. So right off I knew I wasn't the least experienced. Sure enough, her horse dragged her through every mesquite bush on the reservation and did whatever the hell it felt like doing... It was very satisfying.
After our ride we drove to a local hangout for lunch, The Pueblo Cafe, then raced back to the hotel so we'd be relaxed in time for our complimentary massages. My masseur was a huge German guy with hands the size of catcher's mitts. I gasped when I saw him. He proceeded to pull and stretch and yank and lift with those ham hands and it was the best massage I've ever had in my life. His name is Alex, ask for him if you go there. Beg for him.
Dinner that night was at the lovely De La Tierra at the resort. For appetizer, I had carpeggio of yak. Paper-thin, paper-taste. Hope it's not the New Thing. And my Angus Steak was a little bit of a letdown too so that was the only bad thing.
Friday I had an incredible Belgian Waffle for breakfast then we drove over to the Taos Pueblo, the remains of the original settlement of the local Indians. It's pretty interesting but it's a big tourist trap and the Indians didn't give a shit if we were there or not. Some are actually still living there at the pueblo so they were going about their business, thank you very much, paleface. We also stopped at the local obligatory Indian Casino, a sad affair with a few dozen slot machines. We lost, as we deserved. Then strolled around the Plaza, which is nowhere near as good as Santa Fe's Plaza and had a mediocre dinner there. The sidewalks were rolled up at 8:30 so we slunk back to our sanctuary.
Saturday morning, another Belgian waffle and we sadly packed our bags to return to Santa Fe. When the valet brought our car around there were two little bags of homemade cookies sitting on the seats. I wept all the way back.
We spent Saturday night in Santa Fe. Sunday, we drove to Albuquerque because I wanted at least to check it out since I'm forever bad-mouthing it so much. Turns out it's not as bad as I've always told people it is, but it's no Santa Fe. We had a good Italian dinner on Nob Hill and stayed at the Marriott. Next morning, caught our planes: Hector to work in Dallas, me to San Diego. Glad to be home.
April 19, 2005
Santa Fe, NM
Yesterday Hector and I arrived in Albuquerque around 1:30 and were up in Santa Fe by 3. Since Kent and Bob weren't home yet we had a little lunch at the Plaza Cafe, did a stroll 'round the Plaza, then met the boys over at their house. Kent had rehearsal last night (he's directing an obscure musical that I saw the premier of in LA in the late 1970's... um... when I was two.) Bob and H. and I had a cheese/cracker/fruit and guacamole snack for dinner then we went to bed early.
Today, we arose all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed and, after a delicious breakfast with Kent at Pasqual's, H. and I left early for a hike at Bandelier National Park. It was delightful weather, all sunny and warm. Not too many tourists. No snakes this time. But we did see a slutty-looking lady walking along the trail in STILETTO heels. We hiked around 5 miles in our ECCO HIKING BOOTS. The streams were gushing from all the rain this season and the park rangers were downright giddy.
We drove over to Chimayo because Kent wanted us to take some photos of the Sanctuario de Chimayo because his production company is shooting something there soon. So we became location scouts. It's a small church, everything is hand painted. Off the chapel is a small room with a round hole in the floor. This hole contains holy dirt and people come to rub it on themselves to be healed. The room is lined with crutches left by pilgrims. I smeared some dirt on my forehead like Ash Wednesday but so far nothing has happened. We then visited with a crazy Indian selling spices who wanted to know why we were wearing matching gold rings, flirted with a nutty old queen running a souvenir shop, and had a great lunch and a glass of sangria at Rancho de Chimayo. That's pretty much the whole village.
Back to Santa Fe. Went over for a quick drink with Charles and Akushla. They are adorable, especially him. She's all perky and Irish and fun. K. and B. call Charles a faux-mo because he's so huggable and gay-friendly. Then we ate dinner at Geronimo. It was just wonderful. I had a crab cake appetizer that was so good I had it again for my main course. Kent and Bob knew everyone there, including the owner. Back home, collapsed, feeling my [not that advanced] age.
Today, we arose all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed and, after a delicious breakfast with Kent at Pasqual's, H. and I left early for a hike at Bandelier National Park. It was delightful weather, all sunny and warm. Not too many tourists. No snakes this time. But we did see a slutty-looking lady walking along the trail in STILETTO heels. We hiked around 5 miles in our ECCO HIKING BOOTS. The streams were gushing from all the rain this season and the park rangers were downright giddy.
We drove over to Chimayo because Kent wanted us to take some photos of the Sanctuario de Chimayo because his production company is shooting something there soon. So we became location scouts. It's a small church, everything is hand painted. Off the chapel is a small room with a round hole in the floor. This hole contains holy dirt and people come to rub it on themselves to be healed. The room is lined with crutches left by pilgrims. I smeared some dirt on my forehead like Ash Wednesday but so far nothing has happened. We then visited with a crazy Indian selling spices who wanted to know why we were wearing matching gold rings, flirted with a nutty old queen running a souvenir shop, and had a great lunch and a glass of sangria at Rancho de Chimayo. That's pretty much the whole village.
Back to Santa Fe. Went over for a quick drink with Charles and Akushla. They are adorable, especially him. She's all perky and Irish and fun. K. and B. call Charles a faux-mo because he's so huggable and gay-friendly. Then we ate dinner at Geronimo. It was just wonderful. I had a crab cake appetizer that was so good I had it again for my main course. Kent and Bob knew everyone there, including the owner. Back home, collapsed, feeling my [not that advanced] age.
April 14, 2005
Oh dear... after three weeks of meticulous care: wetting solution in my eyes every two hours, no rubbing AT ALL, a full week of sleeping in goggles- last night instead of using my artificial tears, I grabbed the bottle of antifungal medicine I use on my fingernail. Two seconds later, realizing my grave error, I screamed "Dear God!" and raced through the house until I found the correct bottle and proceeded to pump the entire contents into my burning eye.
After an hour or so, the agony subsided and I was able to sleep. This morning, everything back to normal.
After an hour or so, the agony subsided and I was able to sleep. This morning, everything back to normal.
April 01, 2005
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